Good Active Ingredient Dermal Penetration

Mandelic Acid

Also known as: Benzeneacetic acid, .alpha.-hydroxy-, Benzeneacetic acid, alpha-hydroxy-, EINECS 202-007-6, EINECS 210-277-1, Glycolic acid, phenyl- (+15 more)

INCI: MANDELIC ACID

Mandelic Acid (CAS 90-64-2) is a cosmetic active ingredient functioning as AHA exfoliant with highest MW among common AHAs (152 Da). Slower, more even. EU Regulation 1223/2009 status: permitted. Industrial safety data is also available in the chemical safety database. Same-CAS public records also appear in industrial chemical safety and pharmaceutical data.

View industrial chemical safety profile for CAS 90-64-2 →

Auto-generated CPSR Part A draft with source citations
Function
AHA exfoliant with highest MW among common AHAs (152 Da). Slower, more even skin penetration produces significantly less irritation than glycolic or lactic acid. Antibacterial activity against acne-causing organisms. Exfoliates without the aggressive brightening that can trigger rebound hyperpigmentation in darker skin tones. Key component of triple-acid peels (mandelic + salicylic + citric acid) validated in Fitzpatrick IV–V patients for acne and PIH treatment.
Safety Rating
GOOD

Chemistry & Identifiers

EC Number
202-007-6

Regulatory Status

EU EU Status permitted
US US Status permitted
US Notes Permitted cosmetic ingredient under FD&C Act. Not GRAS classified for OTC drug use. FDA 2005 AHA labeling guidance applies: products must include sun protection advisory (daily SPF use recommended). CIR 1998 report (reaffirmed 2017) evaluated glycolic and lactic acids but not mandelic acid specifically; comparable AHA safety conditions suggested (≤10% consumer, pH ≥3.5, sun protection). Not subject to any FDA concentration restriction as a cosmetic.

For full compliance data across multiple jurisdictions, use the Substance Compliance tool.

Safety Data

Margin of Safety, dermal absorption, and sensitization profile summaries for Mandelic Acid.

Calculate MoS for your specific formulation with the MoS Calculator.

Dermal Penetration Profile

Skin absorption and penetration characteristics of Mandelic Acid, relevant to systemic exposure and MoS calculations.

Absorption %
8-12%
Penetration Level
stratum-corneum
Penetration Depth
stratum corneum/epidermis
Molecular Weight
152.1 Da
Log P
0.59
Systemic Absorption
minimal
Topical Bioavailability
5-10%
Safety Margin Factor
low
Vehicle Dependent
Yes — absorption varies by formulation

Source: Dermatol Ther 2013

ECHA REACH Registration

European Chemicals Agency REACH dossier and Substances of Very High Concern listing.

Registration Type
Full
Tonnage Band
10 - 100 tonnes
Substance Type
SUBSTANCE
SVHC Candidate
No

Additional Ingredient Properties

10 property records from structured ingredient metadata.

acne
{"cas_number": "90-64-2", "anti_acne_mechanism": "keratolytic/antibacterial/comedolytic", "comedogenicity_rating_0_to_5": "0", "acne_type_efficacy": "inflammatory/non_inflammatory", "p_acnes_mic_ug_per_ml": ">2000 (mild antibacterial)", "sebum_reduction_pct_clinical": "10-15", "keratolytic_strength": "moderate", "exfoliation_mechanism": "chemical", "optimal_ph_for_efficacy": "3.0-4.0", "aha_type":…
anti_aging
{"anti_aging_claim": "brightening, anti-wrinkle, pore-minimizing, cell-turnover", "mechanism_of_action": "Large molecular AHA, slower penetration, gentle exfoliation, antimicrobial", "target_skin_layer": "stratum corneum, epidermis", "collagen_stimulation": "Mild", "elastin_protection": "Mild", "wrinkle_reduction_pct": "8-15", "clinical_study_duration_weeks": "12", "sample_size": "25", "double_bli…
anti_pollution
{"cas_number": "90-64-2", "ingredient_class": "antioxidant_pollution_shield", "primary_mechanism": "barrier_reinforcement", "pollution_types_targeted": "PM2_5", "IR_A_protection": "no", "visible_light_protection": "no", "digital_screen_protection_claim": "no", "PAH_neutralization": "no", "ozone_protection": "no", "mitochondrial_protection": "no", "Nrf2_activation": "no", "AhR_pathway_modulation": …
comedogenicity_detail
{"comedogenicity_rating": "0", "irritancy_rating": "1", "skin_type_suitability": "all,oily,sensitive,combination,acne-prone", "acne_safe": "yes", "source": "Gentle AHA"}
concentration
{"min_concentration_pct": "2.0", "max_concentration_pct": "8.0", "typical_concentration_pct": "5.0", "product_type": "Toner", "function_at_concentration": "Gentle exfoliation", "source": "Clinical literature"}
cost_pricing
{"cost_tier": "mid-range", "estimated_cost_per_kg_usd_low": "35", "estimated_cost_per_kg_usd_high": "65", "natural_premium_markup_pct": "0", "organic_certified_premium_pct": "0", "supply_chain_volatility": "low", "primary_source_region": "China/Europe", "bulk_discount_threshold_kg": "50", "seasonal_price_variation": "low", "commodity_or_specialty": "specialty", "substitute_ingredients": "Glycolic …
deodorant
{"cas_number": "90-64-2", "ingredient_class": "antimicrobial_deodorant", "mechanism_of_action": "bacterial_growth_inhibition", "antiperspirant_efficacy_sweat_reduction_pct": "0", "deodorant_efficacy_hours": "6-10", "odor_reduction_pct": "35-55", "bacteriostatic": "yes", "bactericidal": "yes", "target_bacteria": "broad_spectrum", "microbiome_impact": "selective", "axillary_microbiome_effect": "vari…
depigmentation
{"cas_number": "90-64-2", "ingredient_class": "keratinocyte_turnover_enhancer", "primary_mechanism_of_action": "Larger AHA molecule; gentler; tyrosinase inhibition + exfoliation", "secondary_mechanisms": "Variable", "molecular_target": "other", "tyrosinase_inhibition_IC50_uM": "varies", "tyrosinase_inhibition_type": "competitive", "melanin_reduction_pct_in_vitro": "25-45", "melanin_reduction_pct_c…

Function Categories & List Membership

Cosmetic/Chemical Function Categories
Biocide No specific technical function

Expert Verdict

Expert safety assessment and concern-level summary for Mandelic Acid.

Regulatory Flags

eu-unrestricted no-cir-review no-sccs-opinion phototoxic

Known Synonyms

Benzeneacetic acid, .alpha.-hydroxy- Benzeneacetic acid, alpha-hydroxy- EINECS 202-007-6 EINECS 210-277-1 Glycolic acid, phenyl- p-Mandelic acid Racemic mandelic acid alpha-Toluic acid, alpha-hydroxy- 2-Hydroy-2-phenylacetic acid Kyselina 2-fenyl-2-hydroxyethanova Kyselina mandlova UNII-NH496X0UJX (2S)-2-hydroxy-2-phenylacetic acid (RS)-Mandelate 2-Hydroxy-2-phenylacetate 2-Hydroxy-2-phenylethanoate 2-Hydroxy-2-phenylethanoic acid 2-Phenyl-2-hydroxyacetate 2-Phenylglycolate Amygdalate

Chemical Function

Biocide No specific technical function

Regulatory Lists

Canada; pharmaceutical pharmaceutical Canada; pharmaceutical

Australian Status

AICIS status: listed

Cross-Vertical Safety Context

Same-CAS public records found in pharmaceutical data.

SOURCE ChEMBL / DrugCentral / FAERS DB_PHARMA CAS match

Pharmaceutical Data

Same-CAS rows from the pharmaceutical spoke database.

Compound
MANDELIC ACID
ChEMBL ID
CHEMBL1609
Max Phase
-1
View full pharmaceutical profile →

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Mandelic Acid safe in cosmetics?

Mandelic Acid has a safety rating of "GOOD" in our database. EU status: permitted. US status: permitted.

Is Mandelic Acid allowed in the EU?

Mandelic Acid EU regulatory status: permitted. This is based on EU Regulation 1223/2009 and its amendments.

What does Mandelic Acid do in cosmetics?

Mandelic Acid functions as: AHA exfoliant with highest MW among common AHAs (152 Da). Slower, more even skin penetration produces significantly less irritation than glycolic or lactic acid. Antibacterial activity against acne-causing organisms. Exfoliates without the aggressive brightening that can trigger rebound hyperpigmentation in darker skin tones. Key component of triple-acid peels (mandelic + salicylic + citric acid) validated in Fitzpatrick IV–V patients for acne and PIH treatment.. It is classified as a Active Ingredient in our database. CAS number: 90-64-2.

Is Mandelic Acid used outside cosmetics?

Mandelic Acid also appears in industrial chemical safety and pharmaceutical data. The cross-vertical cards on this page render same-CAS public rows from the matched databases.

Does Mandelic Acid have different safety status in cosmetics vs industrial chemicals?

Mandelic Acid is classified GHS Danger (H302, H315, H318, H335) in the chemicals database but is allowed in EU cosmetics.

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