Good Active Ingredient Dermal Penetration

Retinyl Retinoate

Also known as: UNII-5AT5X9J439, Retinoic acid, ester with retinol, Retinoic acid, retin-15-yl ester, EP-reti plus

INCI: RETINYL RETINOATE

Retinyl Retinoate (CAS 15498-86-9) is a cosmetic active ingredient functioning as Hybrid vitamin A derivative combining retinol and retinoic acid moieties in a. EU Regulation 1223/2009 status: permitted. Industrial safety data is also available in the chemical safety database. Same-CAS public records also appear in pharmaceutical data.

View industrial chemical safety profile for CAS 15498-86-9 →

Auto-generated CPSR Part A draft with source citations
Function
Hybrid vitamin A derivative combining retinol and retinoic acid moieties in a single ester; promotes wrinkle reduction and skin renewal
Safety Rating
GOOD

Chemistry & Identifiers

Regulatory Status

EU EU Status permitted
US US Status permitted
US Notes No FDA restriction; marketed as a cosmetic active

For full compliance data across multiple jurisdictions, use the Substance Compliance tool.

Safety Data

Margin of Safety, dermal absorption, and sensitization profile summaries for Retinyl Retinoate.

Calculate MoS for your specific formulation with the MoS Calculator.

Dermal Penetration Profile

Skin absorption and penetration characteristics of Retinyl Retinoate, relevant to systemic exposure and MoS calculations.

Absorption %
2-5%
Penetration Level
stratum-corneum
Penetration Depth
stratum corneum/epidermis
Molecular Weight
568.9 Da
Log P
14.2
Systemic Absorption
minimal
Topical Bioavailability
1-3%
Safety Margin Factor
low
Vehicle Dependent
Yes — absorption varies by formulation

Source: J Cosmet Dermatol 2017

Additional Ingredient Properties

10 property records from structured ingredient metadata.

acne
{"cas_number": "15498-86-3", "anti_acne_mechanism": "keratolytic/comedolytic/anti_inflammatory", "comedogenicity_rating_0_to_5": "0", "acne_type_efficacy": "inflammatory/non_inflammatory", "sebum_reduction_pct_clinical": "8-12", "keratolytic_strength": "moderate", "exfoliation_mechanism": "chemical", "prescription_required_usa": "No", "otc_drug_monograph_category": "No", "max_otc_concentration_pct…
anti_aging
{"anti_aging_claim": "anti-wrinkle, collagen-boosting, brightening", "mechanism_of_action": "Hybrid retinoid ester, dual retinoic acid release, gentle conversion", "target_skin_layer": "epidermis, dermis", "collagen_stimulation": "Yes", "elastin_protection": "Moderate", "wrinkle_reduction_pct": "12-22", "clinical_study_duration_weeks": "12", "sample_size": "40", "double_blind": "Yes", "placebo_con…
cost_pricing
{"cost_tier": "luxury", "estimated_cost_per_kg_usd_low": "1500", "estimated_cost_per_kg_usd_high": "2800", "natural_premium_markup_pct": "0", "organic_certified_premium_pct": "0", "supply_chain_volatility": "low", "primary_source_region": "Global (synthetic)", "bulk_discount_threshold_kg": "0.5", "seasonal_price_variation": "low", "commodity_or_specialty": "specialty", "substitute_ingredients": "R…
depigmentation
{"cas_number": "15498-86-5", "ingredient_class": "combined_mechanism", "primary_mechanism_of_action": "Synthetic or isolated bioactive with melanin reduction properties", "secondary_mechanisms": "Variable", "molecular_target": "other", "tyrosinase_inhibition_IC50_uM": "varies", "tyrosinase_inhibition_type": "competitive", "melanin_reduction_pct_in_vitro": "25-45", "melanin_reduction_pct_clinical":…
dermal_absorption
{"molecular_weight_da": "568.9", "log_p_value": "14.2", "skin_penetration_level": "stratum-corneum", "penetration_depth": "stratum corneum/epidermis", "absorption_pct": "2-5", "systemic_absorption": "minimal", "penetration_enhancer": "no", "occlusion_effect": "no", "vehicle_dependent": "yes", "skin_barrier_effect": "weakens", "bioavailability_topical_pct": "1-3", "safety_margin_factor": "low", "so…
pregnancy_detail
{"pregnancy_safe": "no", "breastfeeding_safe": "no", "trimester_restriction": "all", "risk_category": "not-rated", "reason": "Dual retinoid derivative", "alternative_ingredient": "Bakuchiol", "source": "dermatology literature"}
solubility_hlb
{"water_soluble": "no", "oil_soluble": "yes", "soluble_in": "oils, ethanol", "insoluble_in": "water, glycerin, propylene glycol", "log_p": "15.8", "appearance": "yellow powder", "source": "Grant Industries"}
synergy
{"inci_name_2": "Squalane + Vitamin E", "synergy_type": "stability-enhancement", "synergy_description": "Ester retinoid with stabilizing oils for enhanced stability and delivery", "combined_benefit": "Improved retinoid stability, enhanced penetration, reduced irritation, effective anti-aging", "efficacy_multiplier": "2.3x", "mechanism_of_action": "Retinyl retinoate is stable ester; squalane enhanc…

Function Categories & List Membership

Cosmetic/Chemical Function Categories
Softener and conditioner

Expert Verdict

Expert safety assessment and concern-level summary for Retinyl Retinoate.

Regulatory Flags

retinoid hybrid-molecule next-generation not-eu-restricted small-rct-only promising

Known Synonyms

UNII-5AT5X9J439 Retinoic acid, ester with retinol Retinoic acid, retin-15-yl ester EP-reti plus

Chemical Function

Softener and conditioner

Cross-Vertical Safety Context

Same-CAS public records found in pharmaceutical data.

SOURCE ChEMBL / DrugCentral / FAERS DB_PHARMA CAS match

Pharmaceutical Data

Same-CAS rows from the pharmaceutical spoke database.

Compound
RETINYLRETINOATE
ChEMBL ID
CHEMBL451039
View full pharmaceutical profile →

Frequently Asked Questions

Is Retinyl Retinoate safe in cosmetics?

Retinyl Retinoate has a safety rating of "GOOD" in our database. EU status: permitted. US status: permitted.

Is Retinyl Retinoate allowed in the EU?

Retinyl Retinoate EU regulatory status: permitted. This is based on EU Regulation 1223/2009 and its amendments.

What does Retinyl Retinoate do in cosmetics?

Retinyl Retinoate functions as: Hybrid vitamin A derivative combining retinol and retinoic acid moieties in a single ester; promotes wrinkle reduction and skin renewal. It is classified as a Active Ingredient in our database. CAS number: 15498-86-9.

Is Retinyl Retinoate used outside cosmetics?

Retinyl Retinoate also appears in pharmaceutical data. The cross-vertical cards on this page render same-CAS public rows from the matched databases.

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